Gucci by Demna: The Revamp

Earlier this year, the fashion world underwent several design and creative transformations, one of the most debated changes being the appointment of Demna Gvasalia as a new creative director for Gucci. Previously working at Balenciaga (and even earlier Vetements), the debut of Gvasalia caused a sensation for the Italian-heritage brand’s audience. His past work was characterised by futuristic, neapolitic silhouettes and disruptive streetwear with big logos and unconventional designs. Gucci’s traditionally opulent and romantic aesthetic was perceived to be under threat. BoF’s audience polls indeed showed that 67% of customers thought that Demna was not a good fit for the brand. Unexpectedly, the designer gained credibility. 

Demna set a blank slate. The brand’s Instagram page was neutralised and the new collection “La Famiglia” was posted look by look, almost like an Italian-style gallery. The looks were named after Italian archetypes such as “Bastardo”, “La Sciura” e “La Snob” which added a humorous sense, making it more memorable. 

On September 23rd, ‘La Famiglia’ came to life with a nod to performative art where models and attendees entered the venue simultaneously, breaking the wall between the audience and the actual fashion show. The red carpet - taking place in Piazza Affari, Milano - showcased the effortless sexiness of the brand with easy-to-wear pieces made available the following week in flagship stores worldwide. Demna’s approach made the brand more attainable with its casual jeans and big fur coats ready on demand. In order to market the new controversial collection, a short film named ‘The Tiger’ was premiered at the venue to close the show, starring Demi Moore as a powerful fashion-house matriarch.This sparked conversation for her dramatic portrayal of legacy. 

After consecutive falls on sales, Kering’s decision to appoint Demna came from both necessity and strategy. The group needed a creative director who understood its ecosystem, with proven experience yet a fresh vision. As a longtime member of the Kering family through Balenciaga, Demna fit that profile, though many remained skeptical of how his avant-garde style would translate to Gucci’s heritage. Demna declared “It’s my Erasmus year at Gucci” hinting he is building the foundation for what’s to come. 

As of now, the industry is awaiting February’s new collection, essential to prove the success of Denma’s reshaping of the brand identity.